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Pre-bound?
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Would you prefer to have a shakuhachi pre-bound or would you rather run the risk and have a shakuhachi without bindings?
Yes, pre-bound.
30%
 30%  [ 3 ]
No, wait for crack(s) to have bound.
70%
 70%  [ 7 ]
Total Votes : 10

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Brian Tairaku Ritchie
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PostPosted: 2013-05-30, 11:27    Post subject: Pre-bound? Reply with quote

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Yep, that's the best way to do it. Rattan by itself is just ornamental.
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Jon Kypros
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PostPosted: 2013-05-30, 15:03    Post subject: Pre-bound? Reply with quote

Types of bindings beginning with oldest method from what I have gathered

1. Topical bindings - Oldest bindings are topical rattan used on flutes pre-dating shakuhachi. I have been told that all Edo period komuso shakuhachi were bound with topical rattan much larger than modern rattan and were usually sealed with urushi. Most modern topical bindings are synthetic high tensile strength string applied on the surface "skin" of bamboo with no cutting into the bamboo (topical). Topical string bindings can be lacquered to various degrees.

2. Inlaid bindings with veneer - bamboo is cut into so as to inlay strong string and top with a veneer of choice such as super fine rattan, bark, urushi, maki-e (gold leaf), etc. Veneer is usually flush with bamboo, however, for Edo looking repairs some modern makers inlay the string flush and make the rattan veneer sit on top of the bamboo.

2-1/2. Staples - metal staples inserted to hold a crack together.

3. Inlaid bindings without veneer - binding string is inlaid to be flush with bamboo with no veneer. Can be lacquered.

Interesting fact #1- Most all jiari have inlaid string bindings with flush veneer at the joint.

Interesting fact #2- Edo period komuso shakuhachi did not have inlaid bindings.

Interesting fact #3- Cutting into the bamboo for Inlaid bindings increases the chances for more cracks due to compromising the integrity of the bamboo therefore a full inlaid binding job seems like the wisest option when going this route.

Interesting fact #4- Even a small natural scrape or divots on the bamboo skin can and often do start/cause a crack.
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Brian Tairaku Ritchie
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PostPosted: 2013-05-30, 17:46    Post subject: Pre-bound? Reply with quote

Most people I know prefer to have the flute natural until a crack appears, or to have topical bindings. This is with the idea that the flute is not modified and you can always take the bindings off, and with the hope that those bindings will "prevent" cracks. Which is not true because when bamboo really wants to crack it finds a way to do so.

Once the flute cracks, you decide what you want to do.

I had a 250 year old Edo flute which cracked for the first time when I was hiking with it in Colorado. Eventually they'll all crack! Mort de Rire
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CharlesKoeppen
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PostPosted: 2013-06-04, 02:59    Post subject: Pre-bound? Reply with quote

Has anyone else noticed that when you take off the fishing line topical bindings that it leaves a slight impression? I used to put preventative topical bindings on as soon as I'd get a new shakuhachi, but when I noticed that I decided it might not be such a good idea, particularly since as Brian said when they want to crack they'll crack anyway.
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PostPosted: Today at 12:21    Post subject: Pre-bound?

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